¶ Build Your Own Custom Jig
This is a practical, hands-on tutorial with one goal: help you build your first custom jig from scratch and get it ready for a real test print.
You do not need an engineering background. You do not need to be a CAD expert. If you can measure an object and follow a few clear steps, you can build a first version that works and improve it later.
¶ Scope
- Product: Morpho UV printers that support Base Plate workflows and Custom Jig mode
- Audience: First-time jig makers, creative studios, and small-batch customization sellers
- Typical use cases: Phone cases, earbud charging cases, business cards, badges, and other small flat or shallow objects
¶ Difficulty and Time
- Difficulty: Medium
- Estimated time for a first attempt: 30 to 60 minutes for design, plus 30 to 180 minutes for fabrication
- Recommended first project: A low-risk sample such as a business card, badge, or standard phone case
¶ Before You Start - What You'll Need
Before you begin, make sure you have the right tools and materials ready. For a first-time user, good preparation usually makes the whole process much smoother.
| Category | What you need | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Fabrication equipment | A 3D printer or a laser cutter | A 3D printer is recommended for first-time users because it is easier to create pockets, stop walls, and stepped features |
| Design software | FreeCAD | Free, supports STP import, and is suitable for simple template edits |
| Material | PLA or PETG | PLA is easy to print and dimensionally stable; PETG is tougher and more durable |
| Not recommended | ABS | ABS is more likely to warp, shrink, and produce fumes, which makes it harder for beginners to get an accurate jig |
| Template file | Base Plate STP file | Download a starting template from Article 2 - Base Plate STP Template Library |
| Measuring tools | Calipers and a ruler | Calipers are strongly recommended for outer dimensions, height, and raised features |
| Test materials | White paper, tape, and a marker | Useful for first-fit checks and test prints before you use the real object |
¶ One Important First-Time Tip
Do not try to make a perfect jig on your first attempt. A simple version that holds the object securely, prints in the right place, and passes height detection is much more valuable than a complicated design that takes too long and fails.
For most beginners, the first version should follow these three principles:
- Start with a simple outer shape instead of decorative details
- Prioritize a stable fit before optimizing how it feels to remove the object
- Test alignment on paper before printing on the real item
¶ Step 1 - Measure Your Object
This step determines most of your final result. If your measurements are wrong, the CAD model, the printed jig, and the installation fit will all be wrong as well.
¶ At minimum, measure these five things
- The maximum length of the object
- The maximum width of the object
- The maximum height of the object
- Any raised or recessed features that affect stability
- Any areas that need clearance, such as camera bumps, buttons, curved edges, or lanyard holes
¶ Which measurements affect the jig design
| Measurement | What it affects |
|---|---|
| Maximum length | The pocket size in the X direction |
| Maximum width | The pocket size in the Y direction |
| Maximum height | The total jig height and whether height detection will pass |
| Local raised features | Whether you need extra relief pockets or clearance zones |
| Printable face orientation | Where the stop walls and finger access cutout should go |
¶ Three details beginners often miss
- Do not measure only the front face. Measure the true outer envelope of the object.
- If the object has rounded corners, the pocket should also allow for corner radius or extra clearance.
- If the bottom of the object is not flat, the jig should use support points instead of full-surface contact.
¶ How much clearance to leave
To make the object easy to insert without being too loose, start with the following clearances:
- PLA jig: 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm total extra clearance across length and width
- PETG jig: 0.3 mm to 0.5 mm total extra clearance across length and width
- If the object has soft edges, a film layer, or slight dimensional variation, use the larger end of the range
¶ Common object size reference table
These values are only for quick reference. Always measure your own object before designing the jig.
| Object | Typical reference size | Design note |
|---|---|---|
| Phone case | 147-151 x 71-76 x 10-14 mm |
Watch for the camera area, side buttons, and the flexibility of the case |
| AirPods case | About 61 x 45 x 22 mm |
Pay close attention to corner radius and hinge orientation |
| Business card | 90 x 54 x 0.3 mm |
Better suited to a flat positioning frame than a deep pocket |
| Badge | Common sizes 44 mm / 58 mm, thickness 2-5 mm |
Check whether it is circular and whether it has a pin or back hardware |
¶ Step 2 - Choose Your Jig Base Template
You do not need to start from a blank CAD model. For a first jig, the fastest path is to begin with the closest matching Base Template and modify it.
Download the Base Plate STP templates here:
Baseplate.stp
¶ Object type to recommended template
| Object type | Recommended template | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Phone case | Flat Rectangle Template | Easy to build with four edge stops |
| Earbud case or small box | Rounded Box Template | Better for rounded corners and taller geometry |
| Business card or flat card | Universal Flat Jig Template | Best for simple positioning walls and a finger cutout |
| Round badge | Round Badge Template | Helps keep the center position consistent |
| Irregular small object | Universal Flat Jig Template | Good starting point for a simplified outer envelope |
¶ Template selection rules
- Choose the template that is slightly larger than the object but closest in structure
- If two templates could work, choose the simpler one
- If the object is irregular, focus on controlling the most important edges rather than matching every detail
¶ Step 3 - Modify the Template in FreeCAD
This step focuses on only four key actions. You do not need to learn every FreeCAD tool to complete a usable first jig.
¶ 1. Import STP
Open FreeCAD and import the STP template you downloaded from Article 2.
- Menu path: File > Import
- Select your .stp or .step file
- After import, check only three things first: the model orientation, the general size, and whether the base structure looks complete
When this step is done, you should see a complete jig body rather than only a thin surface.
¶ 2. Modify the Pocket Size
For a first jig, do not fight complex curves unless you need to. The most reliable method is to start with the overall object envelope plus clearance and modify the pocket around that.
- Target pocket length = maximum object length + design clearance
- Target pocket width = maximum object width + design clearance
- Target pocket depth = only deep enough to hold the object securely, not necessarily the full object height
In FreeCAD, the simplest approach is: - Create a Box or sketch-based solid for the pocket you want
- Move it into the correct position inside the template
- Use a boolean cut to subtract that volume from the jig body
The goal of version one is not a tight snap fit. The goal is a fit that is easy to insert, stable during printing, and easy to remove.
¶ 3. Adjust the Fixing Structure
The purpose of the fixing structure is not to fully enclose the object. Its real job is to stop the object from shifting left and right, sliding forward and backward, or rotating during printing.
Focus first on these three areas:
- The two main locating edges
- One anti-rotation stop point
- One finger access opening or removal notch
Common ways to adjust the structure: - If you need an extra stop wall, add a simple Box or Cylinder and merge it into the body
- If you need to remove extra material, use another simple solid as a boolean cut
- If the object is hard to remove, add a finger notch on one side
At the end of this step, the object should be constrained in a repeatable position without needing to be forced into place.
¶ 4. Export as STL
Once the model is ready, export it as an STL for 3D printing.
- Select only the final combined solid
- Menu path: File > Export
- File format: STL Mesh (*.stl)
*If you are using a laser cutter instead of a 3D printer, you will usually export a 2D profile to DXF or SVG and then prepare it in your laser software.
The one thing to remember in FreeCAD
Do not spend too much time making the CAD model look polished on your first try. A jig that locates the object correctly is more useful than a model that looks professional but is hard to build and hard to test.
¶ Step 4 - Print or Cut Your Jig
Once your design file is ready, you can move on to fabrication.
¶ Recommended 3D printing settings
For a first print, use stable settings rather than aggressive speed settings.
| Parameter | Recommended value |
|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.2 mm |
| Infill | 40% |
| Nozzle | A standard 0.4 mm nozzle is fine |
| Wall thickness | At least 3 perimeters for better rigidity |
| Supports | Avoid them if possible by choosing the right orientation |
| Orientation | Place the jig flat on the bed with the pocket opening facing upward |
¶ Why this orientation is recommended
- The bottom surface stays flatter, which improves fit on the Base Plate
- Pocket dimensions are usually more consistent
- It is easier to print without supports
- Post-processing is simpler
¶ Recommendations for laser cutting users
Laser cutting works best for flat positioning frames or layered jig structures. It is not the best first choice for deep pocket geometry.
Recommended starting materials:
| Material | Recommended thickness | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | 3 mm |
Flat, clean, and good for positioning frames |
| Basswood or MDF | 3 mm |
Low cost and good for quick prototypes |
Laser settings vary a lot by machine power, so the values below are only starting points for test cuts:
| Machine type | Material | Suggested starting settings |
|---|---|---|
| 40W CO2 laser | 3 mm acrylic | Speed 12-18 mm/s, power 65-80% |
| 40W CO2 laser | 3 mm wood sheet | Speed 18-25 mm/s, power 45-60% |
Before cutting the real part, do a small 20 x 20 mm test cut to confirm full cut-through, clean edges, and acceptable dimensional accuracy.
Warning: Do not use PVC or other materials that are unsafe for laser cutting.
¶ Step 5 - Install on the Base Plate and Test
Once the jig is fabricated, do not jump straight to a full production print. Install it first, then run a low-risk test.
¶ 1. Install the jig on the Base Plate
- Place the jig in the intended positioning area
- Make sure the bottom sits fully flat with no rocking or lifted corners
- If your jig uses multiple pieces, secure the main locating part first, then add any secondary stop blocks
When this step is done, the jig should feel stable. Pressing the corners should not cause any visible lifting.
¶ 2. Place the object into the jig
- Do not force it in
- Drop it in gently and confirm that the orientation is obvious and repeatable
- Remove and reinsert it two or three times to make sure it lands in the same position every time
¶ 3. Add Your Jig in Morpho Studio
- Open Morpho Studio
- Go to Library > Jig
- Select Add Jig
- Follow the on-screen flow to upload the jig model and configure the basic parameters
- Use Morpho's print marker template to place marker points on your new jig so you can enable Snapshot and Smart Print modes
- Draw and save the printable region so the jig can be reused more reliably in later jobs
¶ 4. Run your first test print
For the first print, use white paper or scrap material instead of the real product whenever possible.
Recommended test method:
- Place a sheet of white paper where the object would normally sit
- Print a simple crosshair, border, or small logo
- Check whether the print is centered, rotated, or landing outside the intended area
¶ When the first jig version counts as a success
If the following four conditions are true, your first version is already a success:
- The object fits in securely
- Height detection passes
- The test print does not show obvious misalignment
- The object can be removed without prying or excessive force
¶ Troubleshooting
These are the three most common problems first-time users run into when building a custom jig.
¶ Problem 1: The jig is too tall and triggers a height warning
If the machine reports a height warning, check two things first: whether the jig is fully seated on the Base Plate, and whether the jig body is unnecessarily thick. For most flat objects, the jig only needs to locate the part. It does not need to wrap deeply around the entire object. Try reducing the base thickness, lowering the stop walls, or switching from full-surface support to smaller support points.
¶ Problem 2: The object feels loose inside the jig
If the object visibly shifts left and right, you usually do not need to redesign the whole jig. In most cases, adding one or two small stop features is enough. Start by adjusting the main locating edge or reducing the total pocket clearance. Do not tighten all four sides at once. Change the most important edge first, test it, and then fine-tune if needed.
¶ Problem 3: The print is offset
If the print lands noticeably left, right, or slightly rotated, start with zero-point calibration and hand-eye calibration. These two calibration steps are usually better than manually tweaking offset values when the error is systematic. After calibration, run one more quick paper test to confirm that the alignment issue has been corrected.
¶ Final Check
Before using the jig for a real job, run through this quick checklist:
- The jig sits flat after installation
- The object only fits in one intended orientation
- The object is easy to place and remove
- Height detection passes reliably
- The paper test print is aligned correctly
If all of these are true, you have completed your first working custom jig.
¶ Short Summary for Page Preview
This tutorial helps first-time users build a custom jig from start to finish: measuring the object, choosing a Base Plate STP template, modifying the template in FreeCAD, fabricating the jig by 3D printing or laser cutting, installing it on the Base Plate, and running a first test print. Even without an engineering background, you can start with a simple, stable, testable jig and build your own repeatable custom jig workflow from there.
Based on Morpho Open System.